KASHMIR & ZANSKAR CONNECTING JISPA, HP
We had reached Srinagar late in the evening of the previous day after taking a mid-day flight from Bhubaneswar via Delhi. On our way form Srinagar airport we stopped at Adoos for dinner and later checked into the University guest house. We also stopped at famous Lal Chowk area to purchase a few provisions for our journey.
Margan Top on our way to Warwan Vally
Crossing Margan Top and stopping to see the beauty of barren land
View of Nun Kun from Morgan TopIt is a bit cold in August
Day 1 – Srinagar to Warwan Valley
The first Day of our Kashmir-Zanskar trip began with morning tea at the University guest house. Our first destination was to drive to Warwan valley which we have been planning for 3 years – once in early July we came till Daksum but the weather changed suddenly in the morning and we aborted our trip to Warwan with disappointment. Next time, we booked everything (lost substantial money due to cancellations) but then political upheaval due to Article 370 change became the spoilsport for our trip. Third time we considered ourselves to be lucky as we safely landed in Srinagar and our tour plan was looking promising.
After finishing breakfast at the University Guesthouse we were ready for the long and arduous road journey of about 160km to Warwan. Mr. Wasim of Forest Rest House (FRH) Warwan called up to confirm our visit to Warwan Valley. Our old friend from the University, Prof. Mohammad Shafi came to say “Hello” and we started on Mr. Kazim’s Crysta at about 9.00am from the University Guest House. We selected Mr. Kazim (Kargil) from an old reference as he is the only driver who had taken tourists to such offbeat places. The road to Warwan goes through main towns of Awantipura, Bijbehara, Kokernag, Daksum and Anantnag. There is a beautiful mountain top near Daksum (Sinthon Top) which we had visited in our earlier trip in 2018. After crossing a few kilometers from Anantnag, the road becomes narrow and passes through various picturesque villages going to Margan Top and finally lands in Warwan Valley area. The drive of 6.5 hours is really tiring as a major part of the road is barren and bad but the beautiful view on your way when you pass through the villages makes you feel fresh. While driving through the Highway, we passed through the large open field called Pamposh where saffron is grown. Near the area, there are many shops on both sides of the road selling Kashmir spices including saffron and Kahwa. Typically, visitors stop to buy the products to take home.
On way to Warwan Valley – water is pure flowing from glaciers nearby and a major source for the shepherds and the animals they graze in the area
Once we crossed the main highway, the narrow roads passing through many villages on our way are generally bad and patchy. But the enchanting view on our way of the greenery and apple trees laden with fruits almost ready and ripe hanging from the branches in the backyard of the houses along the roadside keeps you mesmerizing taking away your tiredness. Kazim was too good for this road as he had driven couple of time earlier on this track and the last being only a month ago in July 2021 while driving a single traveler who was almost replicating our planned trip. It was a boon for us as Kazim was fully aware of the road conditions on our way to various places during our 15 days trip. Apple trees are so near the road that you will feel like getting down and touching them. People informed us that apples are already getting ripe in many parts of the State depending on the altitude but mostly, it will ripe in Sept end and Oct and then flood the market with the supply. The trees are laden with other fruits like walnuts which we use as dry fruits.
Apple Trees laden with fruits on our way
We stopped at a place called Gauran (this is the last place for network) for bio-break at about 1pm. The place is tiny with a few shops around and there was a small restaurant which serves rice and potato curry. Non-Hindu travelers can have meat (beef) and roti or rice. Our driver, Mr. Kazim, preferred Kashmiri Naan and tea and we managed with a bit of rice and potato curry. After talking to the local people in the village, we understood that hardly any tourists come this side and hence there has been no facilities for the travelers.
Villages from top with nearby river
We started towards Margan Top and the road was dusty and bad. We could reach Margan top at about 2.45pm after negotiating the bad roads without any signboard on the way. The Margan Top is the highest pass connecting Warwan valley to Kashmir. The picturesque Warwan Valley is the last town of Jammu area in Kishtwar District. The road from Margan Top to Wawarn is really bad but you see the beautiful serpentine river from top with pine trees around. So the road is scenic and you enjoy the drive with all precautions.
View of Villages from Hill Top
We stopped on the road for watching Nun and Kun peaks which was clearly visible from the road while driving from Margan Top. Nun was fully covered with snow but Kun was totally grey. We met some local people with their families and they have driven their small cars in difficult road to the Margan Top and watching the Nun and Kun peaks in a clear day. Our driver told us that when he came last month with a traveler , they could not see the peaks on both days of their journey.
JK Government facility totally defunct but has good potential as this a good trek routeVillages at various layers of the hill and surrounded by pine trees and supported by the river
The road clearance work was going on in many places with JCB machines working for clearing the roads for travellers. The entire road was dusty and we have to keep our windows closed. We did not see any tourist on our way and hence we were the only tourists this time. We reached the Forest Rest House (FRH) about 5pm. It was a very long journey for us. The FRH is located on the main road before entering Inshaan village (before the bridge in the river). For local people, there is a Sumo service from Warwan to Anantnag and this is the only lifeline of transport as no bus service is available. People told us that earlier, they had to walk many miles to come to Gauran to get any service including medical service. Winter makes the life difficult as the road is fully covered with snow and no vehicle can ply. people stay indoor making life difficult.
And Quietly Flows the River Warwan
The staff (Mr. Wasim, the Block Forest Officer, Mr. Abdul Rahman Hazam, the security guard, and Mr. Munnawar, the cook at FRH) are really nice people. We had been in touch with Mr. Vijay Kumar, DFO of Marwa which covers Warwan for almost 3 years as we have been trying to visit the place. There is only one room for guests (we booked through online facility provided by Forest Dept.) but with common bath. Dimmed Solar light provides some respite. No network is available but at times BSNL works if you go to some dedicated locations nearby. Accommodation was comfortable but bathroom has Indian pan system and no commode. Food was prepared by the guest house staff. The guest house staff provided a power bank to charge the phone. But no other electronic items will be running here once battery runs out.
River flows through Warwan Valley giving water to the villages around WarwanRoad Clearing Work using JCB which restricts your movement
Day 2 – Warwan Valley Inshaan to Mulwarwan
Morning was very cold but the weather was clear. We wanted to visit the local villages to see how the people in far off places adjust themselves to the situation. Local villages were Dasbar, Bata, Mangli, Kuzuz, Gomri, Rikinwas, Shakhnai, Inshaan, Mulwarwan, Mulgi, Aftee, Margi, in one side of the river and Bosmina, Chowdaran, Brian, Warwan, and a few other villages in another side of the river. There were hanging bridges which can be used to cross the river and there is one bridge which is capable of carrying vehicle like Sumo or trucks carrying goods for villages.
Local people are enjoying their meal and expected to visit TaptapaniVillage Mugli in WarwanAgriculture is the major source of livelihood in the area – Land patches around RiverMulwarwan agricultural fields
We visited Wildlife guest house and Dak Bungalow which are other places where visitors can stay provided the same is not occupied by local dignitaries. No other tourist accommodation is available in the area and people have to manage with their own tents if they have visited Warwan or request accommodation at people’s houses in villages. The Warwan Valley is beautiful and picturesque in all respect and people in villages are generally nice. we talked to many local people and made friendship. In Margi village we could find community learning center teaching small children. We talked to the lady teacher who takes care of small children. Schools are available till 12th standard in the area. Very little option for economic well being except cultivating Corn, Rajma, potatoes. Some economic activity is available through transport service using sumo vehicles. The cab charges 350 till Anantnag in sharing system with 10 passengers. The daily service of shared transport is available for local people. There is a Taptapani (hot water spring) in the area which attracts local and other people to travel there for health purpose. But reaching that place is tedious and the road is bad and a high clearing vehicle like Sumo can take you there. The weather on both days of our stay was very pleasant with morning and evening are cooler but days are sunny. The beauty of the last village we visited before lunch is the hanging iron bridge on the river flowing around Inshaan Gujjar.
Hill Top from Warwan ValleyThe last village in Warwan Valley
For dinner, I volunteer to cook the chicken for all at the Forest Rest House with minimal ingredients as ginger, garlic, garam masala, tomato, etc. were not available locally.
A local village (last village from FRH side) in Warwan Valley
Day 3- Waran to Aharbal
And Quiet flows the River Warwan giving life support on its wayWarwan River near Wildlife Hut
Morning at Warwan was at peace with nature – silence of the hills and the valley is broken by the flowing of water in the nearby river that is lifeline for the people around this place. Warwan river flows from the glaciers and typically has water almost all the time during the year. People live almost a community life helping each other in all social life. We went for a morning stroll towards the bridge connecting the village over the river.
The bridge on River Warwan to support local village and connecting Wildlife Hut
A few birds and a mongoose could be seen near the broken wooden bridge. Talked to some local youth to know what they would like to become after their studies. Local school has limited options and children have to go to Anantpura to pursue education. Most children are engaged in agricultural activities here as no other gainful employment is really available. Few guys inherit their shops from parents and run small business. The area has no banking facilities and hence local shopkeepers work at banks (lending side) at the time of need.
A typical hut in the village in Warwan
The cook made Kashmiri tea (salt) and it gave us lot of freshness. Breakfast had very few options and typically Puri or Roti with potato curry. Eggs and chicken are generally available locally though it has to come from Anantpura. As we have a reasonably long trip to Aharbal, we started getting ready to move towards our next destination. After breakfast of roti milk and boiled eggs, we said goodbye to all our hosts which included Mr. Wasim, the Block Forest Officer who regularly coordinated with us after we booked (and thanks to Mr. Vijay Kumar, the DFO, Marwa Range), Mr. Rahman, the guard and caretaker, the cook, many other local people including the local security people who were manning the entry gate near the FRH/bridge. We took a group photograph for the memory. we were informed by Mr. Wasim that Warwan is famous for its best quality Rajma and pure honey (collected by local people but typically available in Oct / Nov). He informed that he buys from here in large quantity and stores at home for consumption.
Children at Margi Village – One NGO has a Learning facility in the villageHanging Bridge on WarwanThe River, hills, pine trees – life goes no with the mercy of God
Our driver Kazim knew most of the guys including a few guests who travelled from other parts of the State for camping and visiting Taptapani. We met two families with children who have driven from Pahalgaon and Kargil area on previous day and they were camping on a open field.
We waved “Good Buy” to our friends from Warwan valley at about 8.26am and the weather was changing and it was becoming very cloudy and we expected rain which may cause landslide on our way. Local people advised us to move fast and reach the village Garwan. The drive to the Top Morgan was about 2 hours as road is in bad condition.
FRH at Warwan – saying Good Bye to our friends in FRHLandslide areas get difficult to negotiate during rains and road gets blocked restricting movement
Once we reached Margan Top, we missed the clear weather. The clear sight of Nun Kun peaks was missing and they were fully covered with clouds. We met a good number of Bakrawals on our way and shared some chocolates with their children. These Bakrawals are nomad families who move with their livestock (mostly sheep and goats) wherever green pasture land is available. They climb to the hill tops to take their animals for better food. They make camps typically near river sides for a day or two and move forward.
On our way, we saw a few Marmots on Margan Top and tried to click snaps. We stopped near the Margan Top for a few snaps and bio breaks but as the weather was fast changing for bad, we moved down towards the Gaurwan village which the first village from Morgan Top. Mr. Kazim was of the opinion that if the rain starts, we may have to negotiate bad roads on our way down. On his advice, we drove towards Gaurwan village and stopped there for tea and a few provisions. After saying goodbye to the local people at the village with whom we made some discussion contacts, we started for Aharbal. The road to Aharbal passed through many villages, apple fields, highways, beautiful roads, ripe and yellowish paddy fields all around.
The car was in a very bad share after running on bad and dusty roads. On our way we stopped after Kokernag for washing and cleaning of the car and we took the time off to buy walnuts from a person who was taking out ripe walnuts from the trees. Purchased 2kg for 600. We stopped soon after Kokernag area for lunch. The owner of the small restaurant is a English Ph.D. student from an University in MP. He has done his post graduation from Barkattulla University in MP after his graduation in Kashmir University. On the highway , we were stopped and asked to go for Corona Antigen tests to move forward. During the day we drove via Anantnag, Doru Shahbat, Quazigund, etc. to reach our next destination, Aharbal, by 5pm. We booked through Online portal of JKTDC at JKTDC Aharbal Guest House. It is located in a beautiful place overlooking the enchanting Aharbal waterfall. We enquired at the gate and first went to the wrong place. We could see a bit of the beautiful Aharbal waterfall. We were asked to go back to the main gate and find the correct place asking for Tourism property.
The information about the JKTDC guest house is not available with any sign board or the local people were not properly informed about the place. Finally we could find the place and drove down to the Tourism guest house. The caretaker Mr. Manzoor was not there but luckily we met a local person and enquired about the caretaker. The guy called up the caretaker who came in about 10 minutes. He had no information about our coming or booking. The place was almost ghostly without any sign of life. The water was overflowing in front of two guest cottages. All the cottages were badly managed and surely not worth staying at high rates we paid. There was no light when we reached. We were given one room in the cottage but it was difficult to reach the entrance of the room as the front portion was fully mudded. We asked for a different room and were given a room in the independent block outside the main premises. The room did not have water and the caretaker promised that the water line has been opened and it would take 2-3minutes to get water. He left to make other arrangements as the place had no other facilities like food. We waited for a long time but no sign of water. The place was so shabby that nobody must have used it for a year or more. The room was stinking badly. After getting impatient, we changed the room and moved to a room whose frontside was overflowing with water. The caretaker provided tea and was very apologetic about inadequate services due to lack of information about booking. We ordered some food for dinner as nothing is available in the cottage or in the property itself. The place was surrounded by the hills and water streams flowing from the waterfall nearby. The JKTDC Guest House looked totally out of place in a good surrounding with mesmerizing views all around.
One building of JKTDC Guest House at Aharbal
The Guest House lacks minimum amenities and everything a guest needs has to be ordered from outside. We had ordered food for the night from a nearby restaurant as advised by Mr. Manzoor. The chicken used for our dinner was extremely hard and over cooked. As there was no sign of life and Mr. Manzoor had already left for his home for the night, we retired for the day and wanted to explore the waterfall the very next day before going to our next destination. We observed in the night that a few other guests were staying in the rooms but they did not have any official records of booking as some local shopkeepers make private arrangements for the stay of their guests The Govt. does not get any revenue and we were also advised by a few guys not to book in advance.
Aharbal Waterfall passes through a gorge
Day 4- Aharbal Waterfall passes through a gorge
Early morning – reflection of Sun on the hills around Aharball
The day was really bright early in the morning and we went out to take snaps around the place. Mr. Manzoor informed us that the road to Kupwara from Aharbal should be made crossing the top of the hill in front of the JKTDC and the road is very picturesque. We planned to start exploring the waterfall after breakfast and spend some time around waterfall before starting for Bangas area in Naugam. Since there was no provision for a decent breakfast around the place, we managed some tea and omelets at a small joint called Prince in front of Aharbal waterfall entry gate.
Waterfall passes through the BridgeThe might Aharbal with its emerald blue water with purityBird’s eye view of Aharbal
After finishing our mini-breakfast, we went for exploring the waterfall. The path has been laid down beautifully to walk to the last view point. The view of waterfall was mesmerizing with emerald blue water coming from glaciers around the area. We spent about one and hlaf hourss to explore each and every corner of the waterfall and took snaps and selfie. A few local tourists were there. There is no entry fee for the waterfall. There is a taxi stand which caters to the local people who would like to travel to nearby towns for provisions and medical requirements. We talked to many people there and their frustration with Government inaction to develop the area as a great tourist destination was clear. The place has huge potential as a tourist destination but nothing is available nearby. Quality accommodation as well restaurants are not there. The only Cafe which supplies dinner to JKTDC guests was closed for repairing and no other decent place is available for guests to have food. Amenities are really poor everywhere Public hygiene is missing as we encountered continuous spitting of the population irrespective of their age and gender and education. The use of gutkha and khaini is rampant among people. The use of plastic here is very liberal without an iota of respect for environment. We did not find any program or education system or promotion effort to make the general people aware about the bad effect of plastic on beautiful Mother Nature who has been very kind to the particular geographical area. Use of cigarettes is also rampant among youth. We found many defaced walls around the waterfall.
Day 4: Aharbal to Reshwari (Bangas Meadows)
We started for our next destination after 10.30am from the waterfall. The road first passed to hilly tracks and pine trees and jungles with conifers around. We passed through beautiful Sopian with rich houses on both side sides of the road with apple gardens around. We stopped at a place and asked permission from the house owners to take snaps of the apple garden and they happily agreed. We also took a photograph with them. The apples are getting ripe and it would take about a month for harvesting. On our way we saw apples are being harvested packed and transported. Hundreds of trucks with apple are standing at various check points to cross after checking with security. We crossed Pulwama, Srinagar bypass (10km away), Baramulla, Sopore, Handwara to reach Naugam area. The road was very good and at certain points we have to stop for paying road tariff charges which is rampant everywhere. Almost all Tehsils have given contract to contractors to collect road tariff carrying between 20 and 150. The slips are preprinted and not computerized to ensure proper accounting. The rampant collection is to stop with some better model of financing. At one point we also paid 100 for Red Cross at the advice of local Police which is really commendable for JK Police.
Reshwari is about 2km from Naugam army barrack. We reached the Tourist Guest house at about 4.30PM and the guard Liyaqat went to collect the keys of the gate. After 30 minutes of wait we could get into the room at tourist home and the room was good and better maintained than Aharbal. Mr. Nissar Khan, the caretaker, came down later to talk to us and to arrange for our dinner. Nissar and Liyaqat were nice guys around the place and take care of the needs of the tourists. Dinner was lightly cooked chicken and roti. We met a few people including a local college professor of Botany who had come to roam around the place. We met another group of ladies who had come to their relative’s house in the area from Srinagar. We went down towards the flowing stream nearby and sat in the viewing cabin for sometime to enjoy the beauty of the place. It was a full moon night and the weather was fantastic with clear blue sky. We could see a galaxy of stars after a long time. The moon was coming up between the tall pine trees and it was really nice to enjoy the place sitting in the verandah of the room. We also saw a fox coming up from the jungle to search for food inside the JKTDC premises. Night was peaceful and we had sound sleep.
Day 5: Exploring Bangas Meadows
JKTDC Guest House at Reshwari
We got up early with the morning Sun blooming with its reddish colour and birds were chirping around. The tall pine trees around provided excellent green cover to the area. We wanted to look at the valley beyond the river and went to take a few snaps before morning tea served. by Liaqat. The area is totally peaceful without any noise. At times, an army convoy moves towards the border area through this place. The famous Bangas valley is located nearby and tourists would need a good hike and climb to reach the top of the valley. We planned to hire a local Sumo as we needed a high clearing vehicle and use the Sumo for going up to Bangas Valley. Mr. Kazim will take rest for the day at the JKTDC Guest House. As the road is bad, low clearing vehicles can go upto Neelbandh but beyond Neelbandh, you require a high clearing vehicle. The road construction work is progress at a slow pace and after its completion, vehicles can reach the Bangas top driving through the forest area. We had breakfast of egg and paratha and packed 3 parathas and tea in a flask for our trip to Bangas Valley as we will not get anything there. The sumo driver Mr. Azaz was a very nice guy of 23 years of age. We also picked up a few stuffs like potato chips, mountain dew and other necessary stuffs on our way. We also purchased 100 Walnuts (here they sell in numbers) for 300 bucks from the shopkeeper and he happily put 20 more. We left the pack with the shopkeeper to pick up on return. After a while, near Neelbandh, we could see one more accommodation with 2 huts. Mr. Nissar told us that it also belongs to the JKTDC and is under construction and to be ready in a couple of months.
Bangas Meadows – the grazing place for the Bakrawals
He stopped near a temporary hut to pick up an axe to cut out sticks for us to use while climbing up after the Sumo drop point. We saw road construction work is going on and machines are cutting down trees for making the road. Liyaqat’s wife also travelled with us to Bangas valley. Nissar and Azaz told us that road construction would be completed shortly and then it would be less troublesome for tourists to travel to Bangas area. We went upto the last point beyond which Sumo can not go and parked the Sumo on the road. Both Nissar and Azaz helped my son and my wife to climb the steep stretch which is really difficult to trek as the road is full of boulders. We had to stop 3-4 times on the steep stretch and it took about 30-40 minutes to reach the top. We reached the top at about 11.55am at the grassland top. Took a little rest after reaching the top.
Bangas Meadows from ReshwariDifficult trek to reach the Top of Bangas – Road is full of steep climb pointsShed used by Bakharwals at Bangas where they live for 3-4 months for their animals
The beauty of the Bangas meadows is simply excellent with nature’ bounty. Bangas meadows were surrounded by the snow clad mountain top at the distance, the grassland at lower level and both sides covered with tall pine trees. The weather changes almost every minute with the intense play between shadow clouds and sun rays with light rain drops at times. We started walking in the meadows and taking snaps at times. Nissar and Liyaqat’s wife walked very fast and could not be seen and Azaz was with us walking at our speed and helping my wife. My son was walking fast with me.
After about 2.5km of our walk, it started raining a bit and we stopped at a shed erected by Bakarwals who have been in this shed for almost 4 months and today is their last day as they would close down the shed and return to their homes down below in various villages. The Bakarwals invited us inside their shed and the shanty was lit with fire oven always burning with hot water and Kashmiri black salted tea to keep them warm. They offered us tea to drink and we offered them some snacks with cakes.
Azaz went to look for Nissar but without success. Since the rain stopped, we wanted to return. We met a boy of Stabdrd X in local school who has come to stay overnight with his Bakarwal uncle. This kind nomadic life is very common among people at the top layer of the hills. Even we found that Nissar and Liyaqat’s family move to temporary sheds in upper layers to tend their domestic animals like cows and goats and lambs.
We reached the starting point of our downhill descent at about 4.00PM. Nisaar and Liyaqat’s wife joined us and informed us that they walked to farther points and waited for us but not seeing us they came back. We finished our packed lunch of paratha and egg with hot tea. It started raining badly and we waited near pine trees which protected us from rain. But the downhill path became muddy and slippery and hence lot of precaution has to be taken to ensure that we do not slip and falling off. We started walking when the rain slowed down a bit as the weather was downgrading faster. It took about 40 minutes of careful walk to reach our parking place.
Then we drove back to Neelbandh and below to stop at the Liyaqat’s temporary shed. We met his family and other people including many children inside their hut. They made salted tea for us with ghee parathas but we could take only one paratha and tea just accepting their friendly offer of food as we had food at the Bangas meadows before coming down. . Our dresses are wet and filled with mud at places and shoes were totally muddy but we spent about 45 minutes at their shed sharing our food items and chocolates with the children and family members. We distributed chocolates among children at the time of going up and whatever was left with us was also distributed among the children and each child got one chocolate. Then we had some Nimki which we shared with them.
Our next stop was the grocery store from where we picked up the walnuts as well as other provisions for the dinner. I volunteered to cook the chicken and we had to do it without light as the power line has been cut off by the power supply company for non payment of dues. Nissar talked to some linesman who connected the light after 8pm. We finished our dinner a bit early due to possible power cut at 10PM. The weather was changing fast and it started raining after 10pm. The power also went off at 10PM as promised but we had switched on geyser to have hot water in the morning as power supply was not guaranteed.
Day 6: Reshwari to Teetwal (via Tangdhar and Sadhana Top)
Reshwari JKTDC with tall pine trees around
Morning at Reshwari was beautiful with the night rain clearing the sky. We planned to have light breakfast of eggs and parathas with tea as we have a long travel to take to reach Teetwal via the famous mountain pass known Sadhana Top. Cleared all bills after breakfast and started our drive with Mr. Kazim on steering. We have to move towards Teetwal and Tangdhar area via Kupwara. We needed to visit the DC office for getting permission to visit Tangdhar. We faced problem at entering DC office as the security guard would not listen to us to allow us inside. After some wait of 45 minutes near the gate and drawing the security guards attention to our request to enter, we could enter the place after showing fully vaccinated certificate. Lucky that we had carried the same with us. We were informed by a clerk to put an application in handwriting seeking permission to visit Tangdhar. As we were not aware, we did not seek permission for Teetwal / Seemari (the last village on Indian side) but only to visit Tangdhar. We wrote the application and the clerk took us to another block for doing the needful for file entry and putting up the required note seeking permission. After wait of about 1 hour or so, Mr. Johar Ali, ADC, could sign the order after personal meeting with us, thanks to Mr. Abbas, the young security person with a AK-47 like weapon in hand. We made 6 copies without knowing how many we may need on our way. However, the providence was correct as we required minimum 6 copies of the order / permission at various check points to pass through starting at Kupwara. As advised by Mr. Kazim, we also went to SP office but theyinformed us that the police order is not required as SDM / ADC has given the necessary permission. We drove to Tangdhar through the famous 10500 ft high Sadhana top via Chowkibal.
A village on our way to TangdharRoad from Sadhana Top to Tangdhar passes through various villages
The road travelled through various villages in the hills along Drangiyari and Chhotta Bangas areas with beautiful sights on the way. The views kept up awake. No food is available after Kupwara – Chowkibal. Travelers should carry enough food item when travel through this part of the country. At Tee Pee we enquired for Magie but nothing was available. We moved forward to Sadhana Top and met a young Bengali officer Raja Shaikh from Murshidabad who was happy to talk to us in Bengali.
After crossing Sadhana Top, we drove through picturesque mountain range and reached Tangdhar at about 2.30PM. As we wanted to go to Teetwal for the night stay, we needed permission from SDM office to move beyond Tangdhar. As Teetwal is a border area with PoK, necessary permission is required for all travelers. When we enquired, the photocopy shop owner gave us a form to fill and advised us to visit the concerned office which is just opposite his shop. The office room was locked and we met the clerk of the office sitting in another room that was open and he signed the form ordering us to visit the local Police station for necessary clearance before a permission can be issued by SDM office at Tangdhar to visit Teetwal.
On our way to Tangdhar from Sadhana Top
We went to the police station and young office Mr. Iqbal Jan helped us to create the necessary records for clearance. It is required to have someone local to identify any traveler but he was helpful and did the necessary work on the basis of the DC order. After taking police clearance we went to SDM office and were informed by them that no one is available as all rooms are locked. It seems no signing authority was available for the day. When we enquired, one person suggested that we should request Police to give permission to visit Teetwal as they have also special power to allow travelers to visit Teetwal. Again we met Mr. Jan who was happy to issue the necessary permission to visit Teetwal and Seemari. The clerk at the police station offered us cold drinks. Mr. Jan made us to sit in the SI Mr. MUDASAR’S room and did necessary permission. One police constable was also made to sit with us and guide us and he helped us immensely. The permission letter was immediately made ready and we were allowed to move forward. On our way, we were stopped by Army twice including at Bukhari checkpoint.
Road in Teetwal
The bridge connecting India and PoK over river Kishan Ganga
We met one Subedar in the Army who was helpful and posed with us for a family memory snap. He also called up the next point at Bukhari to allow us pass through. We finally reached Teetwal Forest Rest House at about 5.30pm. The road offered really mesmerizing views while driving to Teetwal. We searched for the security guard to open the Guest House for us. The concerned Block Forest Officer was waiting for us nearby as they could not contact us due to network issues. The FRH had no lights as the connection has been cut off for non-payment of dues. The Block Forest Officer, Mr.Yasir, and the local head Mr. Raja were available in Teetwal and they had not made any arrangements for water and electricity thinking that we may not turn up. After lot of efforts of Mr. Yasir and Mr. Malik, the temporary worker at FRH, the light came at about 7.30pm. Water connection was also poor inside the room with very slow dropping water from the taps. Many people visited the FRH including the children of Mr. Malik. Tea was served to all of them. We went out to the market to buy stuffs for dinner as nothing was available in the FRH. Purchased a few stuffs like onion tomato rice butter eggs Magie sugar rice salt garam masala powder etc. Garlic and ginger were not available in the area. After returning from the shops we prepared rice and chicken curry for dinner. The FRH is located in front of the River Krishan Ganga which is also called Neelam from PoK side.
The FRH at Teetwal where we stayed for couple of nights
We could see the flags of Pakistan as well as vehicles and people standing on the road in Pakistan side. From the FRH we could see the movement of people as well as Army posts. After dinner we slept early as we had a very long travel.
Road on Hill at PoK across Kishan Ganga River
Day 7: Teetwal to Seemari
Got up early and went out to take snaps of the surrounding hills from the viewing area. We could see a few Pakistani early morning visitors looking at Indian side. Took snaps of the bridge at LoC connecting both countries. We had tea in the morning and prepared breakfast with Magie as no other option was available. There was no water in the FRH and the storage tank was to totally empty. Malik went to search for the waterman to request him for diverting water to FRH. Nothing worked till 11am and without any option we planned to move out of FRH and visit the area for seeing the last village, Seemari, and then search for alternate accommodation or move to Tangdhar Government Guest House. We were stopped by the army on our way to Seemari, the last Indian village, as the permission was not given by SDM but the Karnah police Station. We were unhappy and came back to look for alternative accommodation at R&B Guest House. We talked to the local people to look for the chowkidar of R&B Guest House but could not locate him. Met his father and people were sent to look for him but he informed that the rooms are already booked and we can not get the accommodation there but offered us the room till 4pm as his guests are expected to arrive only after 4Pm. Then we were informed by local people that Malik was searching for us as water has started coming to the FRH with his hard work of persuasion and we can again use the FRH.
Buses on PoK side at Teetwal
We needed a few stuffs for lunch and in between found someone frying pakoras in a tea stall and we ordered some as we were hungry. After buying stuffs for Dal Khichdi and eggs for lunch we started for FRH. We cooked our lunch and had the food at about 2.30pm and decided to try out local police station using the good office of Karnah Police station officer Mr. Iqbal Jan to request Army to allow us to visit Seemari. First we went towards the peace bridge at LoC and a Naik from Himachal informed us that without permission no one will allow us inside. However, after hearing about our arrival from long distance he promised that he would request his senior officer to allow us to visit the bridge and advised us to first finish Seemari village as Army will close the gate at 5pm and we were already at 4.35pm. We went to the local police station and met the a few officers and learning about our profession and from the area from which we have come, the second officer asked one police officer to accompany us and seek the necessary permission from the Army to visit Seemari. He sent the young officer with us to talk to Army person and with that we could manage to get our permission to visit Seemari village.
Two villages having the same name – Seemari – across Kishan Ganga River
The road towards Semari runs on the side of Kishan Ganga River flowing down. The scenery is extremely beautiful. The police person showed us the place where there were sudden shelling from PoK side a few days ago also the place from where a vehicle on PoK side fell down from top and passengers died. The road in PoK side is compared to the 3 vehicle moving at a time kind of high speed highway leading to Srinagar and the same is made in 2011 by Chinese. Our side roads are just okay but it will pose serious challenge to army vehicles movement if any urgency arises. The drive to Seemari village took about 20 minutes and after reaching there we saw a few local tourists (from various places in JK) around the place with about 7-8 vehicles.
Bridge across Kishan Ganga connecting India with PoK
The police officer showed us the point where Indian command ends with a post for the Army. Seemari is the last village and the village opposite Seemari in PoK side is also known as Seemari. We took a few snaps and spent about 15 minutes around the place and came back. We collected our cameras from the Army post as we had deposited the same at the time of going as no photograph is allowed there. We came back to the market to pick up a few stuffs for dinner and on our way stopped near the Bridge connecting both countries. A group of 8-9 travelers were asking for permission to visit the bridge but the Army officer politely refused entry due to security reasons. We waited till the large group left and requested him to allow us to visit the bridge as we had made request through the Naik in the morning. We had earlier requested for entry to Naik Mr. Singh. We were allowed entry and met the officer in charge who explained the security situation there and allowed to look at the bridge and took photographs. He advised us not to take any photograph of Indian army posts this side but we were free to take snaps of the bridge. The bridge was made by King Hari Singh, the ex-ruler of independent Jammu and Kashmir in 1933 which were broken down many times and again reconstructed. After spending some time and talking to the army personnel posted there (they offered us chairs to sit and have water there), we left for FRH. We cooked our food for dinner in candle light as the power was not available.
Vehicle and onlookers from PoK side looking at IndiaOur visit to Seemari village
Day 8: Teetwal to Lolab (Chandigam)
Went for early morning stroll for photographs of the area. Called out Malik for making tea. Gas got over at FRH and he arranged for a stove to make tea and hot water. Also made Magie for all and egg scramble for breakfast. Paid 4000 (1000 tips for him) to Malik for the stay as we had booked for one night but stayed 2 nights.
Rice step cultivation at Teetwal
After bath and breakfast we started for our next destination Lolab valley – the rice bowl of Kashmir. We were stopped first at Bukhari for clearance and then at Sikhbridge and there we again met our Subedar friend from Indian Army and he was very happy to see us. He said that he enquired about our stay at FRH through their nearby post. He offered us water and we had a good chat about the security situation in the area.
Degree College at Tangdhar
Our next stop was at Sadhana Top where thorough checking is done for the luggage and vehicle which takes about one hour or so. After thorough checking (we were informed that drugs and arms are smuggled in this area and hence Army ensures people travel safely) we were allowed to move forward. We crossed Baghbela, Reddi, etc. to reach Kupwara. On our way, we were stopped at various places for security check and release towards Kupwara. We enquired with the local police about the good place for lunch at Kupwara and on the advice of police we stopped at Kupwara for lunch at Raj Palace Restaurant near the taxi and bus stand closer to Lolab entry road. After lunch we purchased a few provisions from the bakery at Raj Palace for our Lolab and Sonmarg requirements. The road towards Lolab is okay though at times we encountered bad patches. We had booked the Forest Rest House at Lolab but it was far off and we saw the place had no light and quite secluded. hence, we decided to go to JKTDC guest house and our driver, Mr. Kazim, knew the caretaker.
JKTDC Guest House at Loab (Chandigam)
Lolab area is on the foothill of mountains and it is a plain land with paddy fields around. Paddy has already been harvested at places and so also apple as Lolab has higher temperature compared to Sopian and Sopore. Apple trees are now empty in most houses. We crossed Sogam Area and drive towards Chandigam. We reached the rest house at about 3 30PM. The guest house is managed by the chowkidar Mr. HAMID. The place was without light when we reached. The chowkidar informed us that electricity would come late after 8PM. We went for a stroll around the village and met a good number of people on the way. People like Shabir Ahmed who runs a small provision store on the main road in front of guest house invited us for tea. We talked to another gentleman who had just harvested Walnuts from the hired a few trees in an orchard and all his harvests are packed in gunny bags (about 5 big 4packets) for further processing before it can be sold out in the market. He expects to realize about 1000 per kg for cleaned walnuts. We met another person who does not believe there is anything like Corona. He believes it is the handiwork of Government. After the stroll of about 40 minutes, we came back to Rest House. In the Rest House premises there are quite a few walnut trees and we collected many walnuts with hard skin. We removed the green skin to get the walnut shells. Dinner was served with hot chicken curry and rice. The weather also changed a bit towards rains with wind. But it was pleasant for us to stay at Chandigam.
Day 9: Lolab (Kalaroos) to Sonmarg
Morning was really peaceful and serene. Went for a stroll early in the morning and met 2 gentlemen who were walking from Sogam to Chandigam and back. One is a Geography professor of 12th Std school and another is an ex-employee of Graameena Bank. They told us that they can not think of going and staying in a far off place from Chandigam. Life is full in their own surrounding. and they enjoy.
Sprawling JKTDC Guest House at Lolab (Chandigam area)
We had breakfast of paratha, tea and eggs and got ready to move for our nest destination. We took a round in Lolab Valley looking at paddy fields and people working on paddy fields harvesting their ripen crop. We then moved towards Kalaroos area for seeing Satbaran and the pre-historic caves. Kalaroos is about 14km from Chandigam and we have to take right turn in the Bazar area of Kalaroos.
The road to Kalaroos is not good. It is said that Kalaroos cave inside the jungle goes to Russia. The cave has no light and it is extremely difficult to explore without the guides. There are no official guides available but you have to take the help of local boys to guide you to the cave. It is a good trek to reach the cave area inside the jungle.
First we went straight in the wrong direction but local people helped us to turn back in the right direction. Once we drove back to the market area, we found a very small lane which goes towards Kalaroos. There are no sign and it seems very few tourists come this side. We drove for about 2km in bad and hilly track and the car has to wait and we have to trek towards Satbaran. After enquiring with local people, we hired one guide Shaukat to guide us to the place. Another 4th Std student Junaid also wanted to take us towards the cave. We also asked him to come with us. The trek is steep but manageable with sticks which were given to us by Shaukat. That day, we had four families visiting the caves – 3 families including us from Mumbai and one Bengali family with army background. We found a convoy of security personnel with full gun gears and bullet proof vests carrying water, food, etc. in an army vehicle to help the said Bengali family. We reached Satbaran after about 1hour trek. It was very hot and humid at Satbaran (seven welcoming doors before the cave).
A new born (a few hours old) is fast catching up with mother at Kalaroos
We met the Mumbai based families who had come to the see the cave. Earlier we had seen those people in Kupwara market area while going for lunch. One of the members (Mr. Bharat Gupta (CA)) was an avid photographer with one 1DX canon. He informed me that his sister’s daughter is studying in the University campus where I work. He promised that he would soon visit me in Bhubaneswar.
The army vehicle with 7-8 gun holding Jawans that were providing security to one family offered us water. We decided to proceed to the cave as we were running out of time and has a long way to drive to reach Sonmarg.
From Kalaroos, we started at about 12noon and crossed Bandipora and Sopore to reach Wular lake area to move towards Sonmarg. We crossed Manasbal area. We stopped at a place for lunch. Drove via many villages to reach the highway to drive towards Sonmarg taking a bye-pass road. Reached Sonmarg JKTDCat about 7.10pm. We had booked in Thajawas glacier cottage but late reaching in JKTDC made us to compromise to stay in the Kongposh hotel as the manager was helpful in converting our booking. Since the Thajawas glacier cottage is at the top and a great deal of climbing is required, vehicle do not go there, the Manager suggested that we stay in the hotel block instead of going to Cottage. He also said that there are no food service at Thajawas cottage and it will be difficult to stay there. As it was late, we had dinner and retired. Dinner at JKTDC, Sonmarg has very limited options. Tourists may opt to go out and there are plenty of food options in front of the resort.
Day 10: Sonmarg to Putrachick
Morning at Sonmarg was uneventful. JKTDC guest house was a good place to stay as it is located on the highway and very convenient to reach markets. The sky was clear and we wanted to move faster to reach our next destination. Had breakfast in the lawn area in front of the dining hall and we were ready to move towards Kargil / Zanskar. Started from Sonmarg after 9.30PM and the road to Zozila pass was great it provided us great views. Stopped at many places to take snaps. At entry point of Kargil, we had to show our RTPCR for moving forward. We crossed Gumri, the second coldest inhabitation.
Reached Kargil at about 12.30PM and before that we went to Kargil War memorial. This was our second visit to the Memorial and this time a major section was closed for tourists due to Corona scare. Every time, we visit the war memorial, we bow down before the Army for their service to the nation and Kargil War memorial reminds us the supreme sacrifice many soldiers made for the country to reclaim our land from the enemy.
We wanted to have lunch before moving towards Putrachick. Went to a small resturant in front of the Bus stand and had simple lunch. We drove via Sankoo and many other villages. Reached the tourist guest house at about 4.30PM. Drove via Kargil towards Putrachick. Mr. Kazim knew the caretaker of the Government rest house and we requested him to provide a room for the night. He was more than happy as there were no other Guests in the Guest House for the night. The place is just okay and the rate charged is also very reasonable. The place has the best view of Nun Kun. Suru View Guest House is opposite the tourist guest house. Waited for sunset on Nun Kun peak but nothing much could be seen due to clouds. In normal clear days, the Sun sets on Nun Kun and the peaks become totally reddish and mesmerizing.
Day 11: Putrachick to Padum
Wanted to capture the early morning moments at Putrachick and see the hills and snow clad tops of Nun Kun around the place. Got up early and took some snaps of the peaks as we had a very clear sky compared to the evening which was cloudy. Weather was just fine and saw a few birds having a gala time in water. It was Muharrum day – the holy festival for Muslims and Shia Muslims observe the same in a big way. As Kargil is mostly Shia dominated, we expected large processions on the way. The caretaker advised us to move fast as the roads are going to be closed for the procession to move peacefully. Started from the guest house at about 7am towards Padum.
The road is better than last time and we could smoothly travel seeing the beauty of the snowclad tops and changing roc formations on both sides of the road. We stopped at Rangdum and tried to locate the government property where we had stayed during our last visit. Our earlier plan of visiting Padum was not successful due to bad weather and we had to go back from Rangdum after spending one of the coldest nights in the guest house without any heating facility and blankets were not sufficient to protect from cold.
This time, we met a good number of bikers and stopped near a restaurant to pick up bread and omelets. Had good rest here for about 30 minutes and had tea. On our way, we stopped at various places to take snaps. We crossed many villages, Parkachick glaciers, Rangdum, etc. to reach Padum by 4pm. Muslim youths who were distributing food and water on account of Muharrum to people in Padum Bazar. We happily collected the packet and enjoyed the same on our way to the Hotel. We had not booked any hotel as typically rooms are available in this area as family travelers are only a handful during holiday season.
After reaching Padum, we started searching for accommodation. Hardly any good hotel is available at Padum as it is not a typical family tourist destination but a bikers’ paradise and adventure destination for SUV owning guys. We chose Hotel Marq after checking at Mont Blanc Guest House. Hotel Marq is the best staying option in Padum and it is a favorite of all bikers and adventure travelers though charges are very high compared to what they have to offer. The hotel owner maintains it reasonably clean (but the bath room window glass is broken (it may pose risk of falling from top), water gets blocked at times in the bath room) but charges premium as they have no competition to face. It is a reasonably good place for short stay and okay for food. We ordered some snacks and it was served well. As we had a long travel day, we had our dinner a bit early at 9PM and retired.
Day 12: Padum
Though we planned to stay for one night at Padum and one more night on our way to Sinku La but decided to stay for two nights at Marq as we were informed by a couple of travelers that the accommodation is not good on our way as it is dorm room with very poor facilities and all guests have to sleep in the same room and toilet is a bit far from the room. Since we had one day at hand and were informed by the incoming drivers that the pass is open for travel, we decided to cross Sinku La the very next day directly from Padum by starting a bit early. We went for sight seeing of Sani, Karsha monastery, Sheila waterfall. Sani is about 10km from Padum. There is a statue of Padmasambava in the middle of the park but not well maintained. We were only tourists to visit the place. We walked around the place for sometime.
Then we drove to Karsha monastery. It was about 15km from Padum and the road is good to drive. We climbed up the monastery prayer hall and met monks there. About 80 monks including 20 child monks are housed in the Monastery. The monastery is a simple one but very old one. There were 2 other groups from Calcutta also visited when we went to the monastery. Then we drove another 15km from Padum town to visit Sheila waterfall. It is located in the village named Sheila. A small hamlet but the children were eager to guide us to the waterfall. We gave them candies. We had to walk for 10 minutes to reach the waterfall base. It was a good place to visit.
We returned to the hotel and rested for sometime. In the afternoon we went to Zangla to see the old palace. It was about 30km from Padum. As the climb was very steep on rocks and boulders, we decided to return and visit Stongday gompa. It was also a good place to visit and we net the monks there. Returned to hotel at about 6.30pm.
Day 13: Padum to Jispa via Sinkula Pass
Started from hotel at about 6.50am after picking up packed breakfast and lunch. The first 25km is real good road but afterwards the road was really narrow and bumpy – there are np roads but boulders on a path. The surrounding was superb but it was really hot and sunny. The road / path has been carved out of hills closer to the river. We reached Purne village at about 10am. The river with true emerald blue water is coming from Phugtal gompa. We passed through many small villages with only a few houses. Houses are almost similar structure. Hardly any vegetation around with only poplar trees. Very difficult life of people we could visualize. Regular transport is not available and winter is harsh in this part with people confined to their homes for nearly 6 months or so due to heavy snow. We moved forward and reached Kurgiakh at about 11.30am. The only tea stall in the village was closed.
We drove further and met a biker from Kolkata named Surya who wanted us to help him to make his bike stand up. We met another group of bikers who had faced a battery problem and wanted help. Our driver Kazim tried his best but not much could be done. Then we met another biker whose bike has fallen and he has been waiting for about half an hour to get help to make his bike stand so that he can move forward to Padum. We helped him to make his bike to stand up.
We drove further in the bad road. The road is being done up by BRO with large number of people from Jharkhand area working at high altitudes. Talked to many workers and they were happy for the employment though they had to stay in such uncomfortable places. We reached the Shinkula Top at about 12.50pm (16580 ft). We have to still climb further to move towards Darcha.
Took some snaps and wanted to move forward as the air was thin. After about 2km from the Top, the road is good and mortared. We drove forward and reached Darcha at about 1.45pm. We register our vehicle for entry. We drove further to Jispa area and selected Bhaga Eco Camp for our night stay. The camp is good with tented accommodation. The place is located on the banks of the river and facing a glacier with snow clad peaks nearby. The place is used as a transit place for travellers to stay overnight as the charges include dinner and breakfast. Rested for the day.
Day 14: Jispa to Manali
Mr. Kazim wanted to leave for his next client and we talked to Anish from Manali Mountain Trail to provide a vehicle for our travel from Jipsa till Chandigarh with stay at Manali and Sundar Nagar. Then we decided to visit Suraj Tal and Deepak Tal as well as Baralacha pass before going to Manali as we wanted to use the time to visit the new places. Reaching manali from Jispa is easy due to the under mountain pass (Atal Tunnel) which makes an all weather road under Rohtang pass. We negotiated with Anish for additional cost of travel. The vehicle arrived at about 10am and we were ready after breakfast to travel to Baralacha. It is about 58km from our stay camp at Bhaga Eco.
We crossed Darcha and moved towards Leh highway. We first stopped at Deepak Tal and met our co-boarders of Bhaga Eco Camp who had gone there on bikes. Took some snaps as the place is surrounded by glaciers and the lake is having low water level due to hot sun and summer. The place would be really good soon after rainy season. We moved forward along the Leh highway and reached Baralacha pass. Just before the pass we found the Suraj Tal. It had low water level but still it was a beautiful place to see surrounded by glaciers. We reversed our car in Baralacha pass and moved back towards Jispa. We stopped at Yak restaurant for lunch. It was a good place and we met two bikers to learn their experience of crossing Sinkula Pass.
We reached Manali in the evening. We checked into the Hotel Mountain Pass and the room was excellent one for 3 persons with a good view of the Manali city from the balcony.
Day 15: Manali to Sundar Nagar
Started from Manali after Breakfast towards Sundar Nagar where we booked our accommodation at Polo Regency Hotel. The hotel is a nice one but the road from Manali to Chnadigarh is really noisy and lot of dust. Lot of road construction work is going on to create tunnels and widen the road as the present road is causing a great deal of traffic jams.
Day 15: Sundar Nagar to Chandigarh
Drove from Sundar Nagar after breakfast with the completion of a highly successful trip. Flight to Bhubaneswar via Delhi was in the afternoon to reach home by 10PM.